Doing a German Smear on stone is a relatively straightforward process. First, you will need to gather the following tools: stone, hammer and chisel set, masonry trowel, masonry hammer, masonry brick chisel, masonry brush, and masonry sealer.
Start by wetting down the stone with a hose to keep it from getting too hot while you’re working on it. Put on proper safety gear, such as a dust mask, protective glasses, and well-ventilated work clothing.
Using the hammer and chisel set or masonry hammer and brick chisel, begin by lightly chiseling away bits of the stone to create an uneven surface. Work from the top and down the sides of the stone. This allows the adhesive used in the German Smear to adhere to the uneven surface.
Once the chiseling is finished and the desired texture is achieved, use a masonry trowel to apply a layer of masonry adhesive to the stone. Rub it in with the trowel to make sure it completely adheres to the stone.
Next, use the masonry brush to spread a layer of masonry sealer over the entire area. This provides an extra layer of protection against weather and water damage while preserving the unique look of the German Smear.
Allow the smeared stone to set overnight. Once it is fully cured, you can enjoy the unique rustic appearance it adds to your home or outdoor area!
Can you smear outside of brick in Germany?
Yes, it is possible to smear outside of brick in Germany. In Germany, smearing is commonly used to strengthen the existing masonry walls and to provide additional thermal insulation. The smearing process involves the application of a thin layer of mortar onto the brick, allowing the mortar to fill in the pores and cavities on the brick surface.
The finished product is a weatherproof and insulated exterior wall that is more energy-efficient and comfortable inside the home. When smearing brick in Germany, it is important to make sure that the product used is made for outdoor use and must be of good quality.
The smearing process should be done by a qualified professional who has experience with the process and materials so that the job is done correctly and safely.
What materials do I need for German schmear?
In order to create a German schmear, you will need the following materials:
* Mortar
* Masonry sand
* Portland cement
* Water
* A 5-gallon bucket
* A medium-sized trowel or masonry brush
* A work surface to hold the schmear
* A metal trowel with 1/4-inch or 1/8-inch notches
* A sponge
* Mortar dye
* Latex paint
* A brush
* A metal float
* Mortar mixing paddle
* Disposable gloves
First, mix the mortar, sand, and Portland cement to create a sticky mix. Once blended, add water until the mixture has the consistency of thick pancake batter. Place the mixture into the 5-gallon bucket, and use the trowel or brush to spread the schmear onto the surface.
Use the metal float to level the surface, and blend in the mortar dye according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Once the schmear has dried a bit, use a sponge to help blend the latex paint into the surface. Use the brush for any detailed work, and the metal float to create a smooth finish. When finished, allow the schmear to dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Finally, use the metal trowel with notches to create a unique texture in the schmear. Use the trowel to scrape away portions of the schmear, leaving behind a distinctive texture in the surface. Then, flush the surface with water, and use the metal float to smooth it out.
Finally, allow the schmear to set according to instructions, and enjoy your German schmear.
How do you Overgrout a stone?
Overgrouting a stone involves adding new grout to replace old, deteriorated or missing grout between stones in a structure. The process can be noticeably rewarding when complete, restoring the structure’s original appearance.
The first step is to remove any loose or deteriorated grout. It can be done manually with a chipping hammer or an appropriate grout removal attachment on most corded drills. Once the existing grout is removed, the joints must be swept clean by vacuuming with a shop vac.
Next, premixed grout or a powder grout mix can be used to fill the gaps between the stones. For poweder grout mix applications, it’s recommended to mix the product with water until the blend forms a thick paste.
This can be done in the bucket the powder was bought in.
Once the grout is ready, it should be scooped into the joints using a grout bag or trowel. Once the joints are completely filled, the surface should be wiped off using a damp sponge. With overgrouting, it’s important to pay close attention to the detail and make sure the grout depths of the joints are even, so the patched and original grout are the same.
A gentle and effective way to achieve this is by using the tip of one finger to ‘float’ the grout over the surface, filling any unwanted voids without creating any new ones. Finally, the grout should be left to dry for at least 24 hours before it is exposed to any water or wet cleaners.
How do you lighten mortar between stones?
Lightening the mortar between stones is important for the long-term durability of the structure. To lighten mortar between stones, start by wetting the stones with a garden hose before applying the mortar.
This helps to keep the mortar from drying out too quickly, which can create weak bonds.
Once the stones are wet, mix up enough mortar to cover the area between the stones. Make sure the consistency of the mortar is fluid enough that it can be easily spread between stones. Then, take a flat trowel, and spread the mortar evenly between the stones.
Use the trowel to fill in any voids and then shape the mortar. If you notice any excess mortar at the edges of the stone, use the trowel to scrape it away.
Finally, use a damp cloth to smooth out the mortar and blend it into the pattern of stones. Make sure to wipe away any excess water that might be left behind. The drying and curing process of the mortar can take up to a week, so it’s important to regularly check the stones to make sure that everything is staying in place and not cracking or shifting.
With these steps, you can properly lighten mortar between stones and ensure the long-term durability of the structure.
How do you resurface a stone fireplace?
If you have an existing stone fireplace that is in need of some resurfacing, the process can be a bit involved but still fairly straightforward. The following steps should help you resurface your fireplace with a new layer of stone:
1. Begin by removing any existing masonry materials, such as brick, mortar, and grout, with either a hammer and chisel or power tools with a chisel attachment. Be sure to wear protective goggles and gloves and make use of a dust mask and vacuum for the dust that accumulates during the process.
2. Once the masonry has been completely removed, you will need to prepare the surface for the new layer of stone. Scrape off any remaining debris and wash the surface with a masonry cleaner to remove any dirt and grime.
3. Next, you will need to apply a coat of masonry primer to ensure a proper bond between the stone and the fireplace wall. Allow this to dry completely and apply a thin, even layer of masonry adhesive to the entire surface.
4. Now you are ready to begin applying the new layer of stone. Begin by applying the bottom row of stones and then move upward, one row at a time. Make sure to keep the seams between the stones tight and use a masonry trowel to fill in any gaps between larger stones.
5. After the entire surface is covered, use a grout trowel to spread grout over the seams between the stones. Allow this to dry completely and then use a masonry brush to clean the stones and remove any remaining grout.
6. Finally, you will need to seal the stone and grout with a sealant to protect it from any dirt or moisture. Apply one coat of sealant and allow it to dry completely before applying a second coat.
Following these steps should help you resurface your stone fireplace and give it a new, fresh look. Be sure to follow all safety precautions when removing existing masonry and lay down drop cloths to protect your floors while you work.
What kind of grout do you use for brick?
The most common grout used for brick is a regular Portland cement-based grout, which is available in a variety of colors. You’ll want to make sure the grout you choose is appropriate for outdoor use and/or the area in which it will be installed.
Additionally, it is important to choose a grout that matches or complements the color of the brick.
When applying grout to brick, first prepare the surface by wet-brushing a repointing mortar, such as Type N Masonry Cement, between the joints. Once the mortar has hardened and been cleaned, you can then brush the surface with a brushing agent like nylon bristle brushes to remove any loose material and help the grout form a stronger bond.
Once the surface has been prepped, you will then mix the grout according to the manufacturer’s instructions. After the grout has been mixed, apply it to the brick with a grout bag, rubber float, or trowel.
Use a damp sponge to wipe away any excess grout and to give the project a finished look. Leave the grout to dry for at least 24 hours before using or exposing the area to water.
Following the instructions on the label of the product you used, you may need to seal the grout after installation. This step helps protect the grout from water absorption and further damage and helps preserve its color.
Overall, it is best to consult with a professional when selecting and applying a grout to brick. They will be able to suggest the best product for your specific project and provide best practices for an optimal outcome.
Can you use thinset mortar German smear?
Yes, you can use thinset mortar to do a German Smear, but it is usually not recommended because thinset mortar is designed for harder surfaces like walls, hard floors, and countertops, and is not as flexible or suitable for softer surfaces like brick.
The reason why thinset mortar is not typically used to German Smear brick is that brick is a softer material that needs a more flexible adhesive for a successful bond. Therefore it is better to use a masonry adhesive like a construction adhesive that is specifically designed for brick.
Additionally, thinset mortar typically needs to be applied to the brick at a thicker layer than is required for a German Smear, and it can be difficult to achieve the thin, even layer of mortar that is necessary for the desired look.
Therefore, unless you have experience with thinset mortar, and you are confident that you can get an even, thin layer, it is usually better to use a masonry adhesive that is designed specifically for brick or stone.
What is messy mortar?
Messy mortar is a type of mortar joint that is excessively thick or unevenly applied. It may also contain chunks of mortar or appear bumpy due to the large amount of mortar used in the application. The messiness of the mortar can cause a variety of problems, including weakened structural support and an unsightly appearance.
It can also be difficult to clean, allowing dirt, dust, and debris to collect in the nooks and crannies of the mortar. Professional bricklayers often use special rakes and scrapers to level out and remove messy mortar joints.
How do you make new brick look old?
To make new bricks look old, you can use a variety of techniques. The simplest and most cost-efficient method is to use weathering paint or masonry paint to give the bricks an aged look. You can also use a light wash with diluted paint to add a weathered effect over the entire brick.
You can also use a light sandblasting to weaken the colors and create a weathered look. You can even use a chemical process to make the bricks appear older. This can be done by soaking the bricks in a diluted acid solution for a few hours for a subtle streaked color.
If you want to mimic a worn texture, then applying a thin layer of lightweight concrete troweled onto the bricks with a brush or sponge works well. Lastly, you can make the brick look older by simply scratching the brick’s surface firmly with a wire brush or steel wool.
What’s the difference between whitewash and German smear?
Whitewash and German smear are two different methods of applying a thin coating of mortar to the exterior of a building or other masonry structure for decorative purposes. Both finishes create texture to the exterior, but there are some notable differences between them.
Whitewash is a mixture of slaked lime, water, and pigment. It’s easy to apply, is non-toxic, and is ideal for softer surfaces such as brick, stone, or concrete. The finished look is either completely white or lightly tinted, with a fairly uniform coating of the mixture applied to the surface.
German smear, also known as “drag” or “smeared” mortaring, is a finish that uses the same basic ingredients as whitewash but with a different application method. Here, a trowel is used to scrape, spread, and roll the mixture into the uneven surface of the masonry.
The end result is a variegated finish of grays, creams, and whites that appears more rustic and old-world than a straight whitewash finish. German smear is best applied to firmer, more solid masonry surfaces.
How much does it cost to German smear a house?
The cost of German smearing a house can vary depending on a few factors. Generally speaking, it can cost anywhere from $6 to $15 per square foot. The larger the area that needs to be covered with German smear, the more expensive it will be.
If you are hiring a professional contractor to do the work, they may charge additional fees on top of the per-square-foot cost. In some cases, additional fees may include charges for renting scaffolding or other equipment needed for the job, or fees related to hauling away material waste.
Additionally, the cost may be affected by the type of material used, such as mortar and brick, as those materials may be more expensive than some other common types of siding and mortar. Other costs to consider include labor costs, the cost of supplies, etc.
Ultimately, the cost to German smear your house will depend on the size of the job and the specific materials and services needed to complete the project.